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Post by Rickster on Feb 28, 2019 9:00:37 GMT
And I always undo the manifold bolts and leave it attached to the exhaust when I take the head off - you should have enough movement to get the manifold away from the manifold bolts to lift the head. Lifting the head whilst bent over the car will kill your back. Because of my back issues I always remove the bonnet and use a £30 eBay hand winch - if you are outside then get someone to give you a hand - you'll thank me when you are old like me!!😁
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Post by wannabe on Feb 28, 2019 11:16:40 GMT
Thanks for all the encouraging words, gents I hate not being prepared and getting halfway through a job then getting stuck! Sandwich bags and a sharpie have been bought lol I was hoping to do it this week while the weather was unseasonably warm, but I've procrastinated so much around which version of parts to buy / how much to spend / whether to do the waterpump (am tempted to leave it as it's only 2-3 years old and I don't really want to touch the crank pulley) that it's now getting colder again and it's going to slash it down with rain all weekend, going from what the BBC weather says... I still have two weeks holiday to take before the end of March, lol, so I'm going to potter about in it and try not to get squashed by lorries for three weeks and then crack on with it at the end of the month, and hopefully it won't be the 5 degrees it was last year... If I didn't have to get the head refurbed then I'd have a go today/tomorrow, but I can't guarantee I'll get it back from the workshop chap until the day I need it to get to work! I admire anyone who can just get stuck into a job without worry of getting stuck / things going wrong / if it's going to rain, lol.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 28, 2019 15:59:39 GMT
I was hoping to do it this week Wanna swap? im converting my ‘93 B3 Passat from 1.8L petrol (single point injection) to 1.9L tdi with full enginebay electrical, fuel system, pedal assembly and gearbox on top of the basic engine swap, started Saturday and should be on the road in a day or so last time I did a similar conversion it was over a weekend (but I didn’t have to strip a newer donor Passat for the engine setup so was quicker) and I’m working outside so weather (& interest) dependant enjoy the headwork, use your phone / camera to record pipe & wire runs and (if you are removing the camshafts, number the cam-bearing ‘caps’ if they’re not already numbered... Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Feb 28, 2019 17:59:51 GMT
I was hoping to do it this week Wanna swap? im converting my ‘93 B3 Passat from 1.8L petrol (single point injection) to 1.9L tdi with full enginebay electrical, fuel system, pedal assembly and gearbox on top of the basic engine swap, started Saturday and should be on the road in a day or so last time I did a similar conversion it was over a weekend (but I didn’t have to strip a newer donor Passat for the engine setup so was quicker) and I’m working outside so weather (& interest) dependant enjoy the headwork, use your phone / camera to record pipe & wire runs and (if you are removing the camshafts, number the cam-bearing ‘caps’ if they’re not already numbered... Rich. I am jealous of your skills / confidence! I am a wuss who only likes doing stuff outside in warm weather - I'm not quite sure what I'm doing driving a 5... lol I will work slowwwwlllly so I hopefully get everything labelled up and don't mess it up!!
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Post by Zed. on Feb 28, 2019 19:03:20 GMT
I am a wuss who only likes doing stuff outside in warm weather - I'm not quite sure what I'm doing driving a 5... lol You don't live in Wales then, always raining.... I will work slowwwwlllly so I hopefully get everything labelled up and don't mess it up!! I work slowly, getting older, sorta Lazy and easily sidetracked, I start doing something and, Hey, look, a Squirrel Translated for you did I mention I have 12 vehicles & one motorbike, of them only 2 have mot & one is still driveable - my '91 Discovery 200tdi (well, the Passat will be soon hopefully) and my t4 is insured / taxed but needs some welding for mot so it's in the que Anyway....... Rich. (too many toys, not enough time / intrest / focus etc.)
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Post by wannabe on Mar 1, 2019 0:59:33 GMT
I am a wuss who only likes doing stuff outside in warm weather - I'm not quite sure what I'm doing driving a 5... lol You don't live in Wales then, always raining.... I will work slowwwwlllly so I hopefully get everything labelled up and don't mess it up!! I work slowly, getting older, sorta Lazy and easily sidetracked, I start doing something and, Hey, look, a Squirrel Translated for you did I mention I have 12 vehicles & one motorbike, of them only 2 have mot & one is still driveable - my '91 Discovery 200tdi (well, the Passat will be soon hopefully) and my t4 is insured / taxed but needs some welding for mot so it's in the que Anyway....... Rich. (too many toys, not enough time / intrest / focus etc.) haha I wish I lived in Wales! That or Scotland, both are epic for driving. I also wish I had the space for more cars - apparently I'm not allowed to have a second car for the daily commute, I'd have to sell the 5... Hope you can get all your projects sorted out - I blame the interweb for short attention spans nowadays lol
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Post by wannabe on Jun 29, 2019 15:39:57 GMT
Quick question that I'm sure is daft... I'm missing one of the collets that locates the head gasket and the head itself on top of the block, and the one I do have has been battered to crap when it was pulled out of the head, from what I can tell, meaning it's no longer round. It looks like I'll need to run without them so the current plan is some very thin sections of gaffa tape to hold the gasket in place while I put the head on, then let the tightened headbolts hold everything in place. Would that work? Or are my fears of everything moving while tightening bolts up a real risk? I might see if any motorfactors are still open and see if they have any...
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2019 15:58:21 GMT
Quick question that I'm sure is daft... I'm missing one of the collets that locates the head gasket and the head itself on top of the block, and the one I do have has been battered to crap when it was pulled out of the head, from what I can tell, meaning it's no longer round. It looks like I'll need to run without them so the current plan is some very thin sections of gaffa tape to hold the gasket in place while I put the head on, then let the tightened headbolts hold everything in place. Would that work? Or are my fears of everything moving while tightening bolts up a real risk? I might see if any motorfactors are still open and see if they have any... Ford's infamous 'Pinto' (pinto-saurous? as it's a dinosaur ) runs a bolted head-joint without dowels, iirc the head & block are counter-bored for dowels jut none were used if the headgasket can move around on the headbolts (either when placed on the head OR cylinderblock) then I'd be a little cautious, especially if the gasket's 'Fire-rings' (the metal sealing-rings around the cylinder) are close to the chamber or cylinder as they could overlap & POSSIBLY cause gasket failure the dowels should still be available? if not I've definately got a pair from a 1.6 cabletied togther hanging on a hook in my workshop..... Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jun 29, 2019 16:03:45 GMT
Quick question that I'm sure is daft... I'm missing one of the collets that locates the head gasket and the head itself on top of the block, and the one I do have has been battered to crap when it was pulled out of the head, from what I can tell, meaning it's no longer round. It looks like I'll need to run without them so the current plan is some very thin sections of gaffa tape to hold the gasket in place while I put the head on, then let the tightened headbolts hold everything in place. Would that work? Or are my fears of everything moving while tightening bolts up a real risk? I might see if any motorfactors are still open and see if they have any... Ford's infamous 'Pinto' (pinto-saurous? as it's a dinosaur ) runs a bolted head-joint without dowels, iirc the head & block are counter-bored for dowels jut none were used if the headgasket can move around on the headbolts (either when placed on the head OR cylinderblock) then I'd be a little cautious, especially if the gasket's 'Fire-rings' (the metal sealing-rings around the cylinder) are close to the chamber or cylinder as they could overlap & POSSIBLY cause gasket failure the dowels should still be available? if not I've definately got a pair from a 1.6 cabletied togther hanging on a hook in my workshop..... Rich. Thank you for the quick reply!! I was thinking that the fire rings were very close to the cylinder edges, hence my caution Because I'm so disorganised and my only speed is 'pottering', I only ever get stuck at the end of the day, it seems, so everywhere that might be local and stock collets is shut now! Mazda Parts is also closed until Monday now... I'll have a look to see if anywhere like Halfords might sell dowels - I've only searched for 'collet' so far and nothing of use has come up, lol. I may well have to take you up on the offer of your pair, if that would be alright! EDIT: 'Dowel' is a much more useful search word! www.autolinkmx5.com/cylinder-head-locating-dowel--pin-genuine-mazda-mx-5-b63010306-5268-p.aspAnnoyingly, I did an order from Autolink already for this and 'collet' didn't come up... (grrr)
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2019 16:12:21 GMT
I may well have to take you up on the offer of your pair, if that would be alright! no problem, wont be able to post till monday... Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jun 29, 2019 16:25:29 GMT
I may well have to take you up on the offer of your pair, if that would be alright! no problem, wont be able to post till monday... Rich. Right, have carpe diem'd and ordered them - won't be any quicker than your very kind offer but will save putting you out! Thank you again for your help and generosity! As the missus is moaning at me to do things I'll have to put the HLAs/cams/etc. back in the head while it's off the car then lift the whole lot in as one and hope it doesn't break my back... lol Or I might do the dadbif approach and put it on without the head gasket for now, nip up the headbolts finger tight, then carry on with the building up. If I can turn the cams with the pistons at TDC, that should mean being able to check for worst-case-scenario interference...
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Post by wannabe on Jun 30, 2019 9:36:22 GMT
Scored cam bearings / journals, anyone? Seems like the exhaust cam has been scoring away at the seating points, which is annoying... Not much I can really do about it and the Rod Grainger manual mentions about measuring bearing clearance (which I haven't got tools for) so I guess it's just a case of reassembling and waiting for it to maybe go bang at some indeterminate point in the future. Ho hum!
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Post by Zed. on Jun 30, 2019 11:09:30 GMT
the camshaft 'wears' against the bearing cap (think of the force-loading, it's opposite to the valves & springs then slightly to the side due to rotational inputs?) generally, marking in the head's bearing surfaces is due to dirt in the oil-system (possibly from the origonal Mazda build) & the 'line' you can see probably mates up with the oil-grove in the camshaft's bearing journal & may be partly due to staining from the oil as a general rule-of-thumb (you'll get the coincidence..), as an apprentace, I was taught to use my finger (thumb??) nails to 'feel' scratches / damage/ rough surface-finishes allegedly, the finger (thumb??) nail can 'feel' down to ~0.003" so if you cannot 'feel' it don't worry Rich. (carrying no responsibility!) EDIT! something else that can damage, mark or errode bearing surfaces is too high oil-pressure! although this is mostly seen on lead type bearings like used in the crankshaft main & big-end bearings
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Post by wannabe on Jun 30, 2019 14:22:15 GMT
Givrn I am apparently owner number 17 or 18 (!!) who knows how much neglect it's suffered in the past! If it actually runs and works (place your bets now! lol) I'm going to stick to short oil change intervals to try and prolong its life. The scoring is definitely feel-able, unfortunately, and it is indeed in line with the oil groove on the cam. Hopefully it's not letting too much oil escape from the groove, which I guess could increase friction/wear in a vicious circle thing! Anyway, cams and bridges are now in but the front oil seals were a PITA, lol. I fear leakage but we will see!
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Post by Zed. on Jun 30, 2019 14:32:22 GMT
cams and bridges are now in but the front oil seals were a PITA, lol. I fear leakage but we will see! why? lube cam, fit seal on cam, place cam in head, * fit bearing caps, 'nip' bearing cap bolts, torque bearing cap bolts. * When the cam is in the head, place a smear of silly-cone gasket sealer on the front bearing-cap's front-edges & upto where the cam-seal bore is. also do same for rear bearing-cap / cas mount this is to seal the metal-metal joint surface as it will 'weep' slightly otherwise similar idea when fitting the cam-cover, put a little 'blob' of sealer in the corners where the flat surface of the cylinder head meets the cam bearing caps to assist the camcover gasket sealing
mostly works
for the metal-metal joints I've been known to use 'Lion' & 'Stag' jointing compounds but that's dependant on whats close to hand
Rich.
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