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Post by wannabe on Jun 19, 2021 19:00:23 GMT
So it is kind of hesitating before the revs pick up? Not an expert  but could there be an air leak that's leaning out the mixture under the initial increase in pressure, which then settles down higher up the rev range because the change in vacuum is not so great compared to between idle and open throttle? And it disappears when hot because whatever it is that is leaking has expanded and sealed up? Maybe?? lol |
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Post by moclan on Jul 7, 2021 16:22:26 GMT
so I might have found what it was but who knows? the little pipe between the air resonator thing and the valve cover was splitting, changed that, I changed the spark plugs (just in case but the looked good) and what I think it was is one of the connection from the plug lead and the spark plug (cyl#4) was not clicking properly. The other 3 would go click and the 4th would just fit but no click idle felt/sounded better and no studdering when pushing on the throttle, even when engine cold so ... hopefully that it! |
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Post by moclan on Dec 30, 2021 12:55:49 GMT
question for you electrical gourous.
rear window heater (defroster) worked fine until a few weeks ago. Now nothing. haven't changed a thing.
there's power at the socket on the rear shelf (oem installation), the wires (tracks) on the window are not cut (continuity test), the cable going from the socket to the window will have power until I connect them to the window spades ... then 0v
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Post by Zed. on Dec 30, 2021 14:21:36 GMT
there's power at the socket on the rear shelf (oem installation), the wires (tracks) on the window are not cut (continuity test), the cable going from the socket to the window will have power until I connect them to the window spades ... then 0v continuity test of the heater-element (on window) Rich. |
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Post by moclan on Dec 30, 2021 19:49:59 GMT
there's power at the socket on the rear shelf (oem installation), the wires (tracks) on the window are not cut (continuity test), the cable going from the socket to the window will have power until I connect them to the window spades ... then 0v continuity test of the heater-element (on window) Rich. yes I did that and it bips when I use the Ohm bip thing on my voltmeter, unless it's not supposed to? |
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Post by wannabe on Dec 30, 2021 22:24:12 GMT
Could the connector be shorting?
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Euro MX5
Dec 31, 2021 7:47:24 GMT
via mobile
Post by dadbif on Dec 31, 2021 7:47:24 GMT
Bad earth somewhere?
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Post by moclan on Nov 26, 2022 16:48:27 GMT
well age and bad roads are making me think about going OEM+ suspension instead of the CRD's I have on. Car's really a bit (too) low. What are you folks using these days?
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Post by Zed. on Nov 26, 2022 18:29:18 GMT
well age and bad roads are making me think about going OEM+ suspension instead of the CRD's I have on. Car's really a bit (too) low. What are you folks using these days?Erm......  OhlinsRich. |
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Post by moclan on Apr 11, 2023 11:49:46 GMT
Wow! long overdue update. So ... ME221 acquired, modified it back to 1.8 jumpers configuration (they were welded). F-cams arrived, VVT pistons( second hand) on their way across the channel, injectors on order. Still need to figure out wideband anybody know how much "blink" shaved their cylinder heads? Cleaned the OEM BBS (15") I HATE DOING THIS! I also have to look at suspension. I've got some CRD's and they are too low at max height (or I'm missing something). I have to roll over speed bumps with one side only or I scrape  |
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but could there be an air leak that's leaning out the mixture under the initial increase in pressure, which then settles down higher up the rev range because the change in vacuum is not so great compared to between idle and open throttle?
Ohlins
le sigh