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Post by zoona on Apr 5, 2020 18:18:31 GMT
I am getting closer to running in my new engine... But I have a few questions
1. I am in a place where the car is not road legal. Can I leave it on stands and run the engine, or does it need to be under load?
2. Oil... It is difficult to get hold of specialist oils here, will a normal mineral oil be good enough?
3. Any reliable info on running in process? I have read lots of stuff in t'internet... But people do talk a lot of prarrie canoe, and want to sell their own stuff.
Basically... What should I do given I can actual drive it?
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Post by FFS Corders on Apr 5, 2020 19:12:14 GMT
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Post by wannabe on Apr 5, 2020 19:16:28 GMT
I am most certainly not an expert, so value the following according to the amount you have paid for it  I've read about two approaches - give it death as soon as it's warmed up, which might make it a 'fast' engine, or nurse it through 1000 miles of low rev limit but varied load - so not just a massive motorway run (or on axle stands, I presume) - which might? make it have better longevity. (The first I read about in relation to motorbike engines, so it might not apply to larger engines.) Remind me where you are now? I resent their shameless self-promotion on all the internet car forums in the world, but Opie Oils do ship internationally: www.opieoils.co.uk/t-carriage.aspxand stock what appears to be a 'breaking in' oil: www.opieoils.co.uk/p-121334-amsoil-break-in-oil-sae-30.aspx(I have no idea if it's suitable or recommended!) The only time before now I've run an engine in is when I had a Ford CVH rebuilt by 'friends of a friend' in a garage. Was tight as hell and didn't want to rev at first, but did loosen up, so I personally would take the gentle approach (and because I can't afford / don't want to have to buy a second engine!) |
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Post by zoona on Apr 5, 2020 19:33:42 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Apr 5, 2020 20:31:39 GMT
what sort of rebuild? all new (bore & grind) or just a refresh? also, new cams & followers have a diferent 'first start' to save lobe wear Rich. |
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Post by zoona on Apr 5, 2020 20:35:30 GMT
Meant to add this info, but forgot.
Head had a bog standard rebuild. Just new seals etc.
Block bored out by 0.5mm, aftermarket (but not forged) pistons, forged rods.
Head done by professional, the rest by your truly - so a reasonable chance of it going bang very soon...
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Post by Zed. on Apr 5, 2020 23:00:45 GMT
Meant to add this info, but forgot. Head had a bog standard rebuild. Just new seals etc. Block bored out by 0.5mm, aftermarket (but not forged) pistons, forged rods. Head done by professional, the rest by your truly - so a reasonable chance of it going bang very soon... ha. I'd just take it easy for a few hundred miles.... OR run up to temp and let cool a few times then change oilfilter... then drive short distances (can be on stands for the brave  ) can load the engine by a few clicks of the handbrake BUT expect the pads to wear & maybe cook the discs  without being to drive then its hard to 'run in' without polishing / glazing the bores, also something to consider is fuel, too much will wash the oil from the bores & rings but too little can melt things  Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 5, 2020 23:36:34 GMT
also something to consider is fuel, too much will wash the oil from the bores & rings Will this be a problem on our little 5s? I recall reading many years ago that it was an issue on 600+bhp Sierra Cosworths using injectors you could water the garden with  lol, but on a 5 engine that was only lightly fettled from standard?? |
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Post by zoona on Apr 6, 2020 5:27:25 GMT
Meant to add this info, but forgot. Head had a bog standard rebuild. Just new seals etc. Block bored out by 0.5mm, aftermarket (but not forged) pistons, forged rods. Head done by professional, the rest by your truly - so a reasonable chance of it going bang very soon... ha. I'd just take it easy for a few hundred miles.... OR run up to temp and let cool a few times then change oilfilter... then drive short distances (can be on stands for the brave ) can load the engine by a few clicks of the handbrake BUT expect the pads to wear & maybe cook the discs without being to drive then its hard to 'run in' without polishing / glazing the bores, also something to consider is fuel, too much will wash the oil from the bores & rings but too little can melt things Rich. hmm. fuel - i was going to use the original tune on it. The only difference is that the bore is now 0.5mm bigger. Do you think that will be ok, or should i try to add some fuel? I really am not allowed to drive it here. Will see if i can think of some places i can take it that are on private land. There are plenty of tiny backroads where it would be absolutely fine, but if i got caught, i would be in a world of prarrie canoe. |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 6, 2020 6:10:07 GMT
0.5 mm is only .020” and certainly does not warrant any increase in fuelling.
If you cannot drive the car “properly” ie on its wheels and at varying speeds and loads I would leave it alone until you can.
Running it at more or less constant speed on axle stands sounds dodgy to me and more likely to glaze your bores. Or it could fall off...
Personally, I would remove spark the plugs, remove the injector relay and then crank it until you get oil pressure, then switch off, put battery on trickle charger and wait until you can drive it.
When do you return to UK?
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Post by zoona on Apr 6, 2020 6:12:35 GMT
0.5 mm is only .020” and certainly does not warrant any increase in fuelling. If you cannot drive the car “properly” ie on its wheels and at varying speeds and loads I would leave it alone until you can. Running it at more or less constant speed on axle stands sounds dodgy to me and more likely to glaze your bores. Or it could fall off... Personally, I would remove spark the plugs, remove the injector relay and then crank it until you get oil pressure, then switch off, put battery on trickle charger and wait until you can drive it. When do you return to UK? No idea. Possibly never... I need to find somewhere to drive it don't i... |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 6, 2020 6:30:25 GMT
Any tracks nearby? But you’d have to trailer it there.
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Post by zoona on Apr 6, 2020 6:52:44 GMT
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Post by dadbif on Apr 6, 2020 7:35:22 GMT
I know how you feel, moved to Spain in 2005, took my Westfield, not easy to drive it without attracting attention, the Guardian Civil who also do traffic, “suggested” that I should register the car on Spanish plates, I had no problem with this, however, the cars were not homologated in Spain so I could not drive it.
Heartbreaking looking at it, endless sunshine and glorious roads.
Gave it to my son...
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Post by wannabe on Apr 6, 2020 9:53:26 GMT
0.5 mm is only .020” and certainly does not warrant any increase in fuelling. If you cannot drive the car “properly” ie on its wheels and at varying speeds and loads I would leave it alone until you can. Running it at more or less constant speed on axle stands sounds dodgy to me and more likely to glaze your bores. Or it could fall off... Personally, I would remove spark the plugs, remove the injector relay and then crank it until you get oil pressure, then switch off, put battery on trickle charger and wait until you can drive it. When do you return to UK? No idea. Possibly never... I need to find somewhere to drive it don't i... You have the Swiss version of the MOT, don't you? Could you book one and drive it there? Not exactly 1000 miles, but... |
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lol, but on a 5 engine that was only lightly fettled from standard?? 
le sigh