Most reliable tuning?

[quinvy]

I would be interested to know what inlet you guys have chosen?

I really wanted to keep my car as OEM looking as I could. I always think that cars look strange with all the OEM pipe work and plastics removed.

Something that looked standard, but has more low end torque was what I was hoping for.

[lowender]

Dec 14, 2016 20:40:55 GMT quinvy said:

I would be interested to know what inlet you guys have chosen?

I really wanted to keep my car as OEM looking as I could. I always think that cars look strange with all the OEM pipe work and plastics removed.

Something that looked standard, but has more low end torque was what I was hoping for.

This is what my engine bay looks like, pretty standard:



There is more torque at all revs with the Blink stage 1, but the real difference is at 5k rpm, where the standard car starts to wake up a bit, but then kind of fizzles out, the Blink takes off with a kick all the way up to the limiter. 
The dyno graph really tells the story (Blink's dyno measures hub HP remember) - dotted lines are standard car:

[Rickster]

AFR looks a bit high to me, (if indeed it is the red one, blue lines a bit rich?) but I'm no expert so I'm sure Blink know what they are doing.

[lowender]

Red line is torque. From Blink's site:
www.blinkmotorsport.com/images/1.8kit.jpg

[quinvy]

Dec 14, 2016 21:11:22 GMT lowender said:

Dec 14, 2016 20:40:55 GMT quinvy said:

I would be interested to know what inlet you guys have chosen?

I really wanted to keep my car as OEM looking as I could. I always think that cars look strange with all the OEM pipe work and plastics removed.

Something that looked standard, but has more low end torque was what I was hoping for.

This is what my engine bay looks like, pretty standard:



There is more torque at all revs with the Blink stage 1, but the real difference is at 5k rpm, where the standard car starts to wake up a bit, but then kind of fizzles out, the Blink takes off with a kick all the way up to the limiter. 
The dyno graph really tells the story (Blink's dyno measures hub HP remember) - dotted lines are standard car:

That looks really nice, are you still running the OEM header?

[lowender]

Yes, standard exhaust manifold, with standard heat shield.

[Rickster]

Dec 15, 2016 10:00:23 GMT lowender said:

Red line is torque. From Blink's site:
www.blinkmotorsport.com/images/1.8kit.jpg

I could have worked that out if i wasnt being dozy, crosses at 5250rpm!!!
so the AFR is rich

[lowender]

This is a power run at WOT. 12.5 -13.1 AFR is bang on optimum for this condition.

Edit to say: optimum for an na. Optimum AFRs for fi wot would be different.

[FFS Corders]

An early mk2 1.8 engine swap plus a jackson racing intake... a gain of 20bhp and the engine feels much better throughout the revs

Add an ecu and cams and will be plenty extra without *much* work

Then of course add ITBS and all the throttle response will be there

[quinvy]

Dec 15, 2016 17:45:41 GMT lowender said:

This is a power run at WOT. 12.5 -13.1 AFR is bang on optimum for this condition.

Is that your engine result in the graph? 

[lowender]

Yes. Approximately 160bhp at the flywheel, according to Blink's calculations. There's possibly a bit more to be had with a good aftermarket exhaust manifold, but I'm reluctant to spend £500 for not much gain.

[quinvy]

Jan 5, 2017 0:32:22 GMT lowender said:

Yes. Approximately 160bhp at the flywheel, according to Blink's calculations. There's possibly a bit more to be had with a good aftermarket exhaust manifold, but I'm reluctant to spend £500 for not much gain.

This is my quandary with this upgrade. Having spoken to Alastair a couple of times, they seem to recommend a 4-2-1 header and some kind of open filter with a heat shield that they supply.

I really wanted to keep the engine bay more or less standard, as it appears you can cause more harm than good. As you said the only header that appears to add any power is the Racing Beat, and that is £500. Then add a sport cat and a cat back system, and you have spent £1300. 

Then you have a red hot manifold right next to the air box, so you add another £100 on a manifold blanket.

Once you start changing major components, it never stops. I think I'll do the same as you, and keep it simple. I'm really just looking for more mid range torque rather than top end. The joy of the 5 is wringing every available pony out of the engine and chassis, and retaining a reliable and fairly cheap to run little car.

Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

[lowender]

To be honest, although you do get more torque and hp throughout the rev range with the stage 1, it's above around 5k rpm that the power increase is really felt, as seen in the graph. If you're after big mid range torque, it sounds as if a basic FI set up would suit your needs better. Or drop a V8 in......

[quinvy]

Jan 5, 2017 18:25:27 GMT lowender said:

To be honest, although you do get more torque and hp throughout the rev range with the stage 1, it's above around 5k rpm that the power increase is really felt, as seen in the graph. If you're after big mid range torque, it sounds as if a basic FI set up would suit your needs better. Or drop a V8 in......

Mid range torque is the hardest thing to achieve, but for overtaking and going up gradients is where the 5 needs a bit more oomph. 

[quinvy]

There is a decent bit of torque right through looking at the graph. So hopefully it will do the job I want without sticking a super charger on it.