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Post by batou on Jun 13, 2022 14:52:18 GMT
Not to play devils advocate or anything, but if you sell your intake setup that'd cover a part of ITB cost and let you do it sooner, would it not? Photos great as always, that Porsche looks seriously good. Absolutely, this is of course a consideration I've made and a good one to point out. My current thoughts are given the chances of finding an arc chamber in this condition in the future are slim it might also be worth holding onto if I change route. They are mostly likely not going to get any cheaper from this point on too  Yeah that Porsche was the highlight for me, its built by Sports Purpose and fully FIA compliant. Looked so right, a better engine note would be the only thing needed but nothing is ever perfect. |
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Post by batou on Oct 19, 2022 12:42:03 GMT
Been a while since I updated this, but simply because I've been driving it and acquiring parts for the next steps. Probably should just fill in where things are though... SUSPENSION & CHASSIS# Destroyordie Adjustable FCAs (Upper & Lower) # IL Motorsport Hardened Rubber Bushings
# R-Package Lower Tie Rod Ends
# OEM Mazda Lower Ball joints
# Maruha Complete front suspension bolt kit (mar18080800)
NA6CE Destroyordie Fronts by batousan 2, on Flickr After a bit of back on forth deciding on what to do I decided to change the front arms up to the destroyordie kit but keep the standard knuckles, they are a little heavier but stronger, offer more clearance on lower ride heights and importantly nicely adjustable so I can tart up my front wheel fitment by keeping as much caster as I want, locking in the toe and then adding just the right amount of camber to be performant and to not destroy my arches without affecting the former. You can pull/push the top of the wheels in/out on the top arms and move the lowers out 10mm, 25mm (not sure how much the third setting is but too much) to add camber. Of course, I need to ensure I have enough on the tie rods and brake lines to account for the extended track so we shall see when they are on the car.  Bushes, again after some back and forth I decided to stick with rubber, the IL motorsports proving reasonably cost effective and good quality. All these are no pressed into the arms (using threaded bar, nuts, bit of soapy water and some hand cranking. No drama there. I'm working on one side of the car at a time (smol garage), and even though I managed to salvage some of the super crusty bolts I decided to start with a complete fresh bolt kit for the fronts. Having previously had what I thought was a change of cam bolts to some better condition, cleaned up used ones just two years ago and no winters seen on the car I was surprised to find the fronts would barely move at all. One even snapped on removal, with the other having the cam plate jammed in place... this made me question whether the place that aligned it actually moved the front camber at all or used the bolts I provided. Not impressed at all, will take it to black boots next time or Rodders if its in a drivable state to take up North. Maruha motors through Bofi do a nice (but not exactly inexpensive complete bolt kit with some of the bolts treated with Molybdenum in the hope of preventing future rust/seizure of bolts so thats what I'm using.   Maruha NA Bolt Kit mar18080800 by batousan 2, on Flickr On removal of the original lower ball joint I noticed that both that and the tie rod end boot was splitting so I knew I'd need to replace the boot at the very least, and even in my attempts not to damage the threads wow they were crusty, the split pins were like dust and castle nuts in a right state. After buzzing these off and some careful strategic hammering I had to resort to turning the castle nut upside down nipping it level and bashing that knowing full well it may not end well. It didn't and the already ropey and chewed threads were compressed and chewed even more, sod it, might as well not risk it so ordered knew ones. Being an S-Special it has the R-Package tie rod ends, great for helping reduce bump steer, not so nice on the wallet at £70 a pop. I ordered two incase I ruin the other side, if I can salvage the ones that came off in anyway its good to have spares. Now I'd like to end this saying I have it all fitted up, but even though theres no holes I'm spending time cleaning up the front subframe (no chance of dropping that in my tiny garage) and sorting some of the surface in and around that area while the arms are off. So a few hours will be spent with a grinder and strip disks, knotted wheels etc etc followed by smelly primers and chassis paint, oh and dealing with the post grinding tinnitus, missing skin and nausea from the seam sealer fumes.  The front wheel bearings feel like absolute butter (so much for spacers/fat wheels killing bearings eh?  ) but probably will put new ones on as they are already apart now anyway and I'll regret not doing them while its in bits. They have seem 215k kms after all.... In other news, I'm currently waiting on a set of 4AGE 20V Silvertop ITBs and Hummelink adapter kit to arrive, but more on that later....  |
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Post by batou on Nov 3, 2022 17:33:19 GMT
Just a small update as I'm part way through the fronts and decided to cheer myself up after the underseal/painting horribleness. Seriously, if someone offers you a cheap job on underseal/rust treatment/prevention then they are not doing it properly, its awful work. So I fitted the upper and lower Destroy or Die front arms on the drivers side, so far very impressed with the amount of fine adjustment available. For the laughs I set the lower ball joint to the middle extended setting (I'd guess that puts the lower ball joint out +25mm) and the top arms somewhere between 1/4 and halfway to max negative camber. When I asked my gauge how much camber it had it simply said "YES" as shown in the pictures on the left. Theres no point checking the max extended lower position as I'd need longer inner tie rods but I bet you'd get -10 to -12 lol, in the middle setting theres plenty of thread on the tie rod but a lot of toe in to tune out.  After that test, as shown in the pics on the right I set the lower ball joint to the minimum setting +10mm extended and left the top arms where they were (as that was the position I'd roughly calculated I needed) and boom, exactly where I wanted it to be at -2.5. The rear cam bolt is set to offer as much caster as possible, and the front cam bolt is minimal camber without effecting the caster. I'm just eyeballing these based on my old settings (which I painted on as well as the old toe setting) as I will get a full alignment when I've done the whole car of course. I've approximated the toe with the extra track width compared to the old setting (which appears to toe out slightly) and eyeballing them it looks the same as the other side (still untouched so I'll be close is). Should probably start on the otherside but that was a lot of work, buzzed off old underseal and any surface rust (inc half of the subframe as I can only do one side at a time in this garage), two coats of buzzwell rust encaspulator red oxide primer, brand new seam sealer in places (I regretted removing the old stuff as it was mint underneath!) and then two coats of corroless rust killer glass re-enforced chassis in one black on top. Dyanax s50 in the nooks and crannies and cavities. Probably overkill but I really don't want to be doing it again, need a holiday somewhere warm before doing more of that. The yellow marigolds have seen their final days and I swear I've inhaled a lifetimes worth of pure cancer inducing paint. |
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Post by batou on Nov 3, 2022 17:45:11 GMT
Also, just a very cheeky preview as these will be sat in my office while I collect all the needed parts... ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN#Toyota Billet 4A-GE 20V 4-Throttle (Hummelink ITB Kit) So err, yeah... it had to happen sooner or later...  4AGE 20V 4-Throttle (ITB) Hummelink Kit by batousan 2, on Flickr    
Very, very pleased with the finish on these. More to follow... |
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Post by swordspork on Nov 3, 2022 19:32:28 GMT
Much want.
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Post by dave6 on Nov 4, 2022 9:21:58 GMT
That looks....errrr.....spendy!  |
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Post by batou on Nov 4, 2022 10:41:58 GMT
That looks....errrr.....spendy! Not as bad as you think in all honesty, but the supporting mods to accomodate and install everything do add up. I have been saving month on month to buy all this too, and when I say saving I actually mean it....  Bulk buying 65p noodles and veg from the thai supermarket has been key to putting that money aside.  |
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Post by dave6 on Nov 4, 2022 11:01:46 GMT
Commitment level 11 - achievement unlocked |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 4, 2022 11:43:25 GMT
They look very nice and nicely engineered as well. Certainly will look the part when fitted!
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 8, 2022 10:34:23 GMT
Ooh, lovely shiny bits! One question though, why do the welds not go all the way around the trumpets? Surely that hurts your OCD?
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Post by dadbif on Nov 8, 2022 13:49:06 GMT
Ooh, lovely shiny bits! One question though, why do the welds not go all the way around the trumpets? Surely that hurts your OCD? Could be the budget set of trumpets? 🙄 |
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Post by batou on Nov 11, 2022 16:52:22 GMT
Ooh, lovely shiny bits! One question though, why do the welds not go all the way around the trumpets? Surely that hurts your OCD? I don't have OCD lol, it might seem that way from the HQ pics but I'm not about to pull everything out of the bay, polish it, paint it and wiretuck it any time soon don't worry. The build is as clean and functional as I'm willing to go with the budget. The pictures make the car look better than it is 😂. In regards to the aluminum welds I think they are fairly excellent given the degree of difficulty to weld aluminum, the gap is simply there to allow removal of the bolt. Maybe trying to narrow out the welds as you get close to that area would be tough, it might look a tad cleaner but it also might not. Can't say I'm unhappy at all, they will be the nicest thing in my bay thats for sure(rofl) . Could be the budget set of trumpets? 🙄 Budget is a horrible word, they are certainly not budget to me and I'm happy with the level of quality. Sure maybe they are not the very top end polished and rolled billet stacks that sell for $300+ but they look excellent and function perfectly (on the cars I've seen).  Being 4AGE Silvertops there are many options further down the line if want a more polished finished, these are rolled billet stacks from SQ... shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/sq-pro-velocity-stacks?variant=18008440438851... the main factor is this kit surpasses the options we have in the UK when using 4AGE throttles as thats the route I wanted to go. If In wanted to deal with badly thought out "kits", no vacuum ports (or no ideal place for them), disgraceful fuel rail, less clearance, and ugly ass/bad throttle linkages for 2.5x the price, hey, I'd have gone the Jenvey "Premium" route... but ooo those carbon stacks tho. . It takes DIY or resellers to fix that kit before its useable which is unacceptable for the cost. Maruha made their kit work, and I think bofi has now but I don't have that kind of cash. Seriously, I weighed up the options and this option seemed the cleanest, simplest route for not an insane amount of money and also for someone who has nowhere near the patience of someone like Zed lol. |
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Post by thruxton on Nov 11, 2022 17:17:33 GMT
I think they look fantastic!
Regards.
Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 12, 2022 18:11:17 GMT
I think they look fantastic! Regards. Rich. They sure do, I'm well pleased with them. Still waiting on a few other bits and Parcelforcecunts have let me down today, honestly, last time I use them. Really can't be Canoeed to wait around on a Saturday for something not to arrive as scheduled. Also, looky here at the stacks on Keiichi Tsuchiya's Street Ae86....  ^ These are the stacks from one of the most prestige 4age tuning houses in Japan, Tec-Arts. On this car too and I have more weld on the stacks... clearly the "budget" option  |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 12, 2022 20:00:21 GMT
so, is there a 323 camcover somewhere in the future?
Rich.
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) but probably will put new ones on as they are already apart now anyway and I'll regret not doing them while its in bits. They have seem 215k kms after all....
le sigh