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Post by atlex on Dec 5, 2020 20:16:58 GMT
Looks in good nick! :
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Post by suggs84 on Dec 6, 2020 14:47:34 GMT
Yeah that all looks pretty good to be fair! I'm 99.9% confident mine would be worse than that, i'm of the mindset at the moment that if I don't look, it's not there although I don't have anything showing on the wings that you've mentioned. These are still interesting updates, keep them coming!  |
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 6, 2020 18:01:00 GMT
Thought about these whilst you’ve got the front in bits? Had them for over a year or so & think they make quite a bit of difference to stiffening up the front end. Look on P5 of my build thread. pacomotorsports.com/product/strong-arms/ |
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Post by batou on Dec 6, 2020 21:01:42 GMT
MAINTENANCE# Front Sill inspection and pre-treatment/prepSo had a look today and doesn't look bad on first glance and it appears the wing has taken the brunt of it, I've had a go over with the wire brush and given it a degreasing but I could really do with getting a grinder and a cleaning disk on some parts. The rust appears to have just sat on the surface and caused pitting but not actually penetrated the sill, it seems to be completely solid which is a relief. I've given it a light coat of hydrate 80 but I may go over it with a disk and get it back to bare metal and go from there just to be 100% sure.  Rust Inspection & Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr  The underseal on this car is very thick and I've peeled some off in places where its been chipping and surface rust is now showing, thankfully its not long from these bits until you reach perfect metal, so really I should probably use a cleaning disc to strip these areas back and treat/paint and recover them with the UB wax too. Again, all I've done is a quick run over with a wire brush and degrease the surface including the lower wishbone.  I've had a look at the wing, I'm glad I went for new ones. I've given the lower part that had the corrosion a brush and sand with 120/240/400 and you could probably tart it up with some paint, and you wouldn't know the inside tells a slightly different story (see lower down). Its almost gone through and you'd have to take maybe too much off to get it back to metal I think, maybe a treatment with hydrate80 and keep it as a spare, but hmm, not sure. As above, I'm pleased with how it is underneath the wing and for 28 years, even if I just do a quick treat, paint and cover it should still last many years. This is the drivers side however so I'm expecting worse when I do the other side, so trying not to celebrate too much, I have a narrow garage with an upper floor so plenty of storage space up there meaning I can keep the workspace clear but it means I can only really work on once side of the car at a time  . The next house will need a triple garage or a two storey double to keep me satisfied!  Yeah that all looks pretty good to be fair! I'm 99.9% confident mine would be worse than that, i'm of the mindset at the moment that if I don't look, it's not there although I don't have anything showing on the wings that you've mentioned. These are still interesting updates, keep them coming! Well, ignorance can be bliss but honestly I wish I'd done this sooner, just unbolting the bottom portion of the wing and freeing out all the crud is something that should be done regulary as everytime water soaks whats in there its just eating away, rust never sleeps. Oh and just to help you sleep at night, this is how this wing looks on the car and clean (old pic on old wheels but probably the most representative I can find)...  Doesn't look too bad? This is the inside of it off the car after a wirebrushing, quick rough sand and a clean....  ... as you can see, you can never be sure whats hiding behind the wing...   Cheers, yeah it's mainly to document progress with the car so I can look back and keep an idea of what I've done that is a little more fun than a spreadsheet and helps generate ideas and people always have good suggestions as at the end of the day I'm just mucking around after a brief bit of internet/youtube training Thought about these whilst you’ve got the front in bits? Had them for over a year or so & think they make quite a bit of difference to stiffening up the front end. Look on P5 of my build thread. pacomotorsports.com/product/strong-arms/Ahh the old, "while your in/down there" trap, been there many times before, very dangerous! I'm not quite hankering for more stiffness as of yet so it would be a mod for the sake of it right now, going to stick to my path as most of the budget is accounted for in my list, after that I may come back and fine tune here and there when I need it. Really I need more seat time with the new suspension to see what it needs if anything, I'm absolutely sure they do the job, the look proper but right now they would just be 5kg of excess weight as I probably wouldn't be able to tell the diffence yet. Also, it gives me an excuse to have the wing off again to clear out new crap in the future 
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Post by niklas on Dec 7, 2020 5:40:15 GMT
Thats one nice cat, bengal?
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Post by batou on Dec 7, 2020 7:19:55 GMT
Thats one nice cat, bengal? Haha, well spotted, yup. I'm actually allergic to 90% of most cats but as it turns out I'm okay with Bengals and some other breeds. She's 50:50 completely Chilled out:Absolutely raging bats**t crazy  Luna 瑠奈 - Bengal Cat by batousan, on Flickr   |
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Post by suggs84 on Dec 7, 2020 14:48:59 GMT
Ok, so maybe now seeing those photos i'm not feeling so happy with my ignorance is bliss mentality.....  ..... i'd assumed you were at least showing some pin heads on the outside but yes you're quite right, that looks REALLY good when cleaned yet look at the inside. D'OH! I know I have some nasty brown hiding here and there on the car so this is all a job to maybe go digging next year. My MOT is in February so this will be the starting point to know where i'm at. The usual rear sill was done just before I bought it luckily! Digging around there underneath and in yours Eunos, i'd be very pleased - as said, it's 28 years old afterall! Mine is a youngster at 26  Great photos of the Bengal btw! |
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Post by batou on Dec 17, 2020 9:18:09 GMT
MAINTENANCE# Rear differential oil changeSo after posting in this thread here and the following discussion, it turns out this car looks to have a mazdaspeed/mazdacomp lsd fitted, hard to tell without taking it apart but when I got the car in 2014 I have always thought it doesn't feel like an open diff and performs better than the vlsd has been described. Its always been very easy to slide (I'm not suggesting thats a definitive test) and controllable as well as predictable in the wet (again, not definitive, it could still just be a regular open diff), that said, if it is a plate diff it is most likely very worn now and requiring some form of overhaul. It has got noisier this year and thought it might require an oil change, but that noise actually might be the prop (there is weep on the rear of the gearbox/prop seal). Either way, I thought I should probably drop the oil in the diff for now, its been in there for 30,000kms which while shorter than the usual change interval for a regular diff, its probably overdue for this one. I've always ran 75w90 Castrol systrans upto now, and after some chatter in that thread above it was looking to switch to a hypoid oil with a friction modifier that will get changed more regularly. A GL5 somewhere in the 80-90w range is whats suggested but also you can go to 85w140 to tighten things up and reduce noise according to some research, obviously I want a good quality oil but after I've got this diff overhauled, frequent changes would be far more important so cost is also a consideration. I settled on Millers Hypoid 85W140 GL5, I use Millers in all my cars and its served me well and at £8.99 a litre this is good value.  Oil Change - MAZDASPEED (マツダスピード) リミテッドスリップデフの by batousan, on Flickr I left it for some time to full drain, and err, yeah, the old stuff is looking well overdue a change but I was happy to note there were no metallic deposits on the drain plug and the oil had not taken on that "freshly painted black  With the car fully level, I got in just under 0.6L before it started coming out the filler so thats done. So now I need to get the car off the ramps, I still have a few bits to do on the underside as I'm still finishing up the rust and underbody treatment on the right hand side of the car but I should be able to get it out over the weekend all being well and see how it feels. I've finished the front wing area now but still a bit to do at the rear and also get a bit of paint on the bottom of the old wing as its going back on temporarily until the new one arrives and gets painted, I wasn't really paying attention but its the passenger side one that arrived from mx5parts, they are still awaiting stock on the drivers. Still these are going to be professionally done and I'll have the bonnet done at the same time to get rid of the many stone chips so the old ones need to go on regardless so I can drive it. Sneak peek of what the underside of the front wing now looks like, ground back to bare metal, treated with hydrate80, two coats of zinc rust inhibiting primer, 2 light coats of stone chip then a top coat of brilliant black and the lower portion which is where the dirt trap is so i treated that part with Bilthamber Dynax UB wax for protection (I've noted upto where this under the wing with a white paint pen). All the cavities have been treated with Dynax S50. Again, when I'm done with this horrible job I'll do a write up  Rust Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr
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Post by niklas on Dec 18, 2020 16:52:37 GMT
That's really nice. Preserving the car for future generations 😁 there is no kill like overkill!
The white marker is a nice touch.
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Post by batou on Dec 21, 2020 14:19:40 GMT
Another boring update... Seen as theres not much to do other than work and staying at home, and Christmas has reined in the spending, I've decided to do a few of those jobs that haven't really been a priority. For as long as I can remember my speedo has been a little dodgy, but not the cable thats at fault. Accelerating had no issue but whenever I brake hard (or slow down from a 70 to 50 average camera zone for example) the speedo would stay at the high speed and take some time to come back down. I took the instrument panel out thinking that there might be two layers of dials when it was imported and its just a mph backing over the top of the original kmh one. However that was not the case, but when moving the needle by hand you could feel it wasn't returning smoothly, so I took the needle off, blasted out any dust and used a bit of wire to drip a little bit of oil onto the back of the needle and refitted in a bit of a "maybe that will work", now it returned perfectly smoothly and after popping it back on the car it seems to have resolved that.  Easy fix for anyone with a similar issue. Also, quick wash as the car was covered in dust from all the underbody grinding.  NA6CE ロードスタ vs スバル フォレスター SG9 STi バージョン by batousan, on Flickr I still have to do the otherside of the car now I've finshed on the drivers side, although I'm going to do that over the next few months (as I want my garage gym back for a bit) I knew it was going to be potentially worse so I soaked the lower wing bolts in prep to remove them. While I was washing I decided to carefully unbolt them to at least get all the built up crap out to give me a headstart. I spent 10-15 mins very carefully winding them in and out, over and over and applying penetrating fluid.... absolute waste of time as both of the cunts sheared . Ahh well, at least I cleared out all the mud, leaves and crap out before putting it back in the garage I'll just have to use a small drill and re-tap them when I get round to doing that side of the car. It will be going to deepcar (painter dave) next year to get the new wings painted so depending on what I find, if I can't deal with it myself I'll ask him to take a look/fix. That's really nice. Preserving the car for future generations 😁 there is no kill like overkill! The white marker is a nice touch. Absolutely, at this point I'm planning to keep the car long term so the more I can do now the better. Just wish I'd done more like this sooner, the pro underseal I had done in 2014 when I bought the car has held up really well but its not like they would be removing body panels like I am now. Its so worth it! |
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Post by dadbif on Dec 21, 2020 16:49:15 GMT
Rivnut is a simpler fix for lower wing bolts
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Post by suggs84 on Dec 21, 2020 20:52:55 GMT
No update is a boring update, nice little fix there with the dials that only cost some time! The two cars look very smart together, but the Mazda does look tiny in comparison - that said, my best friend has a Jeep Renegade black edition (Fiat 500x in a dress) and when parked next to that, i think my roof is the same height at the bottom of the window on that!! |
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Post by batou on Jun 1, 2021 16:21:58 GMT
So its been a wee while since the last update and not a huge amount of done for various reasons but I have been tackling a few bits and bobs that I have neglected to update so might as well keep things rolling here. I have a few things that in the future plans on either order, or have arrived that are awaiting fitting too: # GC Fabrications GC3 Roll Bar - decided to go for it. Hoping to get it on before July but only ordered yesterday... # New OEM Genuine Mazda Driver and Passenger front Wings - Aquired 24/02/2021, but will get these painted and on later in the year, probably post trackday for obvious reasons. # Tuckin99 Super Down Silding Seat Rails - Ordered from Japanparts on 25/05/2021, 10-15 days apparently. As I've decided on Recaros, gc3 rollbar, harness etc but I need something that slides. Tuckin99 are a cool Roadster tuning shop in Japan (They do some proper overfender kits) and these are their rails which are a better option than other generic options and the Bride Low rails (which don't slide properly on the lowest setting). When I get an idea of when these will land in the UK, and if the rollbar gets done in time I'll pull the trigger on the SPGs too.  TUCKIN99 by batousan, on Flickr Okay so, what have I actually done to date... erm... not that much lol. MAINTENANCE# Rust Treatment & Underbody Protection# Refresh Various Fittings# Engine Oil ChangeDuring the end of last year I started on stripping and treating the patches of underbody surface rust (see here, painting up and resealing things, absolutely miserable work, I did the whole drivers side in Nov/Decemeber but I put off doing the other side till this year as it was Canoeing freezing in the garage and I needed a small excuse to put it off so I did. I got back to it a couple of months ago so I may as well follow up with the finished job. The process itself was as follows using the kit in the image below:  Bilt Hamber Haul by batousan, on Flickr # Wire brush, grind surface rust back to bare metal with a poly disk # Clean and degrease with Bilthamber Surfex HD and leave to dry # Treat areas with Bilthamber hydrate80 and leave for required time between and after coats # Apply two coats of zinc rust inhibiting grey prime # 2 light coats of stone chip # Finish with brilliant black top coat # Protect underside surfaces with Bilthamber Dynax UB wax # Treat all the cavities with Bilthamber Dynax S50 So heres what the drivers wing was like start to finish, the far left has some wire brushing and its missing the image with hydrate80 applied.  Drivers Side Under Wing - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr The passenger side wasn't as bad underneath but damn, I had a lot more wing bolts shear off which sucks. I will sort those a bit later on though when I'm closer to getting it into the paintshop with the new wings on.   Rust Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Theres a few parts that will no doubt give you trouble if you do this job, you have to be patient winding bolts in and out and using losts of penetrant fluid and even then some will let go. Both top bumper to wing retaining brackets (NA01-50-1C0) were in an absolute state so replaced those (drivers one side simply sheared off) as well as the lower support bracket on the passenger side (NA01-50-160). 
Bumper plate - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr I also cleaned up the front and rear suspension arms and around that area somewhat too, I wasn't too aggressive with the grinder on these to avoid causing any damaage. I plant to have these off and replaced at some point in the future so didn't spend a huge amount of time on these. Just remove surface rust, treat and underbody wax oiled them.  Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - First Coat by batousan, on Flickr Rust Inspection & Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Next up was the chassis rails and damn, these are in great shape!! It really shows how long this thing has NOT been on coilovers haha, nevertheless even though they weren't bent up, there were still patchy bits of surface rust to sort where the underseal had worn off on.  Rust Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Hard to see in this picture but you get the idea, this is after the Dynax UB was applied. It's supposed to be excellent stuff but if I have one negative is the fact it leaves quite a sticky finish so I image this might trap dirt so will need to keep and eye on that. Oh and it goes on a brownish finish, black would have been nicer given I went through the trouble of painting things black...  Rust Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Moving onto the rear, the sills are fine inside and were done fairly recently but there was still some surface rust to clear around that area, a little worse on the drivers side but cleaned up fine...  Drivers Side Rear by batousan, on Flickr Removed all the exhaust shielding and rear tow hooks (soon to be replaced with a Mazdaspeed item) and carried out the same process. Was really satisfied with this bit...  Rust Treatment - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Oil change, well nothing exciting to report here other than the proper filter tool and lack of carbon canister makes this a lot quicker. A few good litres of Millers 10W50 CFS later and the lifter tick is now gone.  Oil Change - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr So joined a convoy to Caffeine & Machine over the weekend and damn, I've not really had chance to drive the car in warm, dry weather since the new dampers and geo setup was done and holy crap this thing moves so well now. Felt a little out of its depth with some of the cars there, I was keeping some pace in the corners and was very flattered when the driver of an E92 M3 asked if it was a turbo .   E92 M3 vs NA6CE ロードスタ @caffeine & Machine by batousan, on Flickr  GC8 WRX @caffeine & Machine by batousan, on Flickr |
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Post by suggs84 on Jun 2, 2021 8:10:43 GMT
Great progress, this is all coming along rather nicely now!
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Post by batou on Jun 2, 2021 16:12:52 GMT
Wallet is currently feeling the burn, more parts ordered.....  Soon 👀 by batousan, on Flickr (Not my car but you get the idea...) |
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT