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Post by scottydugg on May 3, 2021 15:56:41 GMT
So since I've got an aftermarket rad, that has more snapped bolts than the rest of the car, I was considering running 1 large or 2 smaller slim-line fans. Trying to future proof, as I'll need to tilt the rad back when going over the rad with the intercooler piping. Since I can only fit the OEM rad fan with 2 bolts and a hefty bodge, I'm considering the through rad mounting method. Anyone any experience with these? know what sizes? is it frowned upon? Spent some time reading through THIS, shrouds are frowned upon apparently. |
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Post by Zed. on May 3, 2021 16:19:26 GMT
I've used 'through-rad' mount tabs on rallycars (iirc, Kenlowe used to use this method?) without issie but was always cautious about damage to the cores. as to shrouds, a well designed shroud can increase airflow due to having a venturi effect with high & low airpressure differentials working but this takes space.... badly designed shrouds actually block airflow  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on May 3, 2021 21:08:19 GMT
Through the rad mounts work well just make sure you dont’t damage the matrix cores, the aluminium cooling fins can be sacrificed.
I’ve successfully used them on various cars.
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Post by scottydugg on May 4, 2021 12:27:01 GMT
I've used 'through-rad' mount tabs on rallycars (iirc, Kenlowe used to use this method?) without issie but was always cautious about damage to the cores. as to shrouds, a well designed shroud can increase airflow due to having a venturi effect with high & low airpressure differentials working but this takes space.... badly designed shrouds actually block airflow Rich. Through the rad mounts work well just make sure you dont’t damage the matrix cores, the aluminium cooling fins can be sacrificed. I’ve successfully used them on various cars. Thanks both, I figure since I can't fit a stock fan with the snapped bolts/tilting the rad, it's worth trying. I'm guessing buying cheap fans is not the way to go, I'll have a look and see what I can fit within the space, I have seen some of the yanks run a solo 13" fan. In terms of damaging the core, is that just at installation or are there any other do's and don'ts? |
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Post by dadbif on May 4, 2021 15:37:06 GMT
I always found it best to install the fan when the rad was off the car, then you can align the fan mounting holes and avoid the matrix cores. Flat on a bench is far easier than on the car.
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Post by niklas on May 5, 2021 5:30:43 GMT
I've been running a spal 305mm with through the rad since I built my engine. Its good. Stay away from the cheap ebay fans as they move half the air a spal does.
Shrouds are nice for street applications. But since you are not using the fan at speed it becomes an obstruction in most cases. Ducting in front of the rad is more important imho.
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Post by scottydugg on May 5, 2021 8:05:41 GMT
I always found it best to install the fan when the rad was off the car, then you can align the fan mounting holes and avoid the matrix cores. Flat on a bench is far easier than on the car. Thanks @dabif, I'll make sure to do that. I've been running a spal 305mm with through the rad since I built my engine. Its good. Stay away from the cheap ebay fans as they move half the air a spal does. Shrouds are nice for street applications. But since you are not using the fan at speed it becomes an obstruction in most cases. Ducting in front of the rad is more important imho. Thanks niklas, I was looking at going Mishimoto, till I found some second hand SPAL units, Going to try 2 9" units side by side. (since I've found a cheap 9" SPAL already  ) Don't feel as bad all the snapped bolts in the rad anymore. |
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Post by atlex on May 5, 2021 19:28:00 GMT
The SPALs are so well priced now you'd be an idiot to spend money on a cheaper fan.
I recommend this model:
SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A 12V 1226 cfm Fan (12.7A max draw)
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)
le sigh