|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 8:52:36 GMT
There is a much longer story after this happened, but I have to do some work right now so will come back later... The short version is: - I turned the stalk to turn my headlights on, - they raised and lowered instantly, lighting up momentarily - I tried again and it did the same thing - I tried again and they got stuck up and stopped working. Fortunately I had sidelights... Looking through the Main Fuse Block fuses in the engine bay in the petrol station by torchlight, one of the 30Amp 'cartridge' fuses seems to have blown.  Super-helpful when the only fuses I have in the car are the blade fuses for the box under the steering column. I need to get out to the car to check which one has blown - this diagram seems to be different to the order that mine are in?? www.carfusebox.com/mazda-mx5-miata-1993-main-fuse-boxblock-circuit-breaker-diagram/ I was tempted to swap the other 30amp fuse in that collection into the slot that I took the broken one from - but I didn't know what I'd be stopping working (because no labels ) and I didn't want that fuse to pop as well and leave me potentially totally stranded... I'm going to order new fuses but any thoughts/comments on problem diagnosis welcome - I will be checking the light connectors when I can finally get them to go down.. |
|
|
|
Post by batou on Jul 14, 2021 9:03:02 GMT
What happens if you use the service button on the centre console? That is seperate to the retractor relay that works with the stalk, I recently fixed my non-stalk-popping-headlight problem buy reseating the retractor relay (right hand side of engine bay under a cover).
|
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 9:22:11 GMT
What happens if you use the service button on the centre console? That is seperate to the retractor relay that works with the stalk, I recently fixed my non-stalk-popping-headlight problem buy reseating the retractor relay (right hand side of engine bay under a cover). Precisely zero, lol. They won't move up and down at all, on either stalk or button, and they won't switch on or flash. TBH I stopped looking at the fuses when I found the one that was broken - I'm wondering if perhaps both Headlight and Headlight Retractor fuses have blown?? Which would be spectacularly irritating if so. I'm still not sure why it would do that, unless one of the connectors behind / connecting the headlights was loose - but then would that just stop the lights actually switching on? Or has a relay (that I think is on the right hand side of the engine bay, if my reading of the Workshop Manual / Rod Grainger book) gone wonky? Total PITA either way. I don't like parking it on street with the lights up in case some moron thinks breaking them would be 'funny'. EDIT: Apologies - inadvertently skimmed batou's comment about the relay  I think I will have a go at wiggling that later. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jul 14, 2021 9:37:25 GMT
theres an earth point below the wipermotor hat can corrode, also others on the dashboard loom? worth checking? also, the hazard/popup switches can fail (rare) same as relays & their connectors whereas stalks die like lemmings (~30 years old now?) anyway. theres 2 fuseboxes + whatever has been fiddled-with / 'improved' since manufacture  as to relays, if dead they can be opened to clean the contacts OR as emergancy measure / get home 2 of the contacts can be bridged to complete the circuit... fun of old cars. Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 9:37:52 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jul 14, 2021 9:41:29 GMT
Ok, some internet trawling turns up a couple of different versions of the Main Fuse Block layout... was just diggin for links about this.... Are the Eunos fuse boxes different to the 'official' UK cars? pot-luck and regional differences.... both of my Eunos's have identical fuseboxes but they have the 'Legend' stickers so I didn't look further  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 9:44:19 GMT
theres an earth point below the wipermotor hat can corrode, also others on the dashboard loom? worth checking? also, the hazard/popup switches can fail (rare) same as relays & their connectors whereas stalks die like lemmings (~30 years old now?) anyway. theres 2 fuseboxes + whatever has been fiddled-with / 'improved' since manufacture as to relays, if dead they can be opened to clean the contacts OR as emergancy measure / get home 2 of the contacts can be bridged to complete the circuit... fun of old cars. Rich. Awesome, thanks for the advice   I am sure that the Hazard/Pop-up switch was working before the lights got stuck, so hopefully that's not broken! The Hazards part was definitely still working, if that's any indication... I'm not mad keen on opening relays  so I might well just order relays and a collection of fuses from Autolink - then I can swap/test/store for future use. (Beyond annoying that I had a load of fuses in the car but none of them fit! LOL) In a worst case scenario I was thinking that I could have taken the top off the broken fuse and then bridged the two parts with something metallic... but I also did not want to die in a ball of fire  lol |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 9:52:47 GMT
Ok, some internet trawling turns up a couple of different versions of the Main Fuse Block layout... was just diggin for links about this.... Are the Eunos fuse boxes different to the 'official' UK cars? pot-luck and regional differences.... both of my Eunos's have identical fuseboxes but they have the 'Legend' stickers so I didn't look further Rich. That is helpful... LOL My engine bay fuse box has nothing at all on it which didn't annoy me at alllll when wondering if I could swap the other 30amp fuse over... My fuse box under the dash/steering wheel has no cover at all. Which also isn't annoying |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 13:58:34 GMT
Quick question -
Assuming I'm parking up and not running, I presume I can just remove the cooling fan fuse and swap it in to replace the broken headlights fuse?
Or could (should...) I bridge the broken fuse?
I just want to drop the headlights... but preferably without blowing another fuse that is important in stopping and going.
|
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Jul 14, 2021 14:03:42 GMT
can't you drop the headlights with the winders ?
|
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 14, 2021 14:13:34 GMT
can't you drop the headlights with the winders ? Do they have to be hand-wound all the way down? I recall I tried it previously out of interest (when everything was working) and they did a few turns then automatically went up/down (can't remember which way). If I wind them all the way down manually, will adding a new fuse mean they then try to be wound even further (a physical impossibility) and break something?? |
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Jul 14, 2021 16:23:01 GMT
the winders just let you raise them or lower them if the motor is bust. they aren't for setting the height or anything. just try it.
|
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Jul 24, 2021 22:43:32 GMT
Ok, quick update. I swapped the fuse for a replacement 30amp 'cartridge' fuse. With the lights (still...) up, II turned on the lights. There was a momentary dim light output, then nothing, then a pop and a small flash from the replacement fuse... I think swapping the headlights might have left a loose connection or something somewhere Thoughts on the way forward? I'm thinking that I remove the lamps, check the connections, swap the original candles in, and then try again with another fuse. I guess that if it then blows again, it's not the lights being borked / one of their connections being dodgy... EDIT: I do have a multimeter I could stab at something in the hope it's correct? |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Jul 25, 2021 7:10:19 GMT
Dimming before blowing the fuse suggests an overload somewhere.
Have you tried unplugging one lamp motor and seeing if the other goes up and down? Sounds like a motor is shagged, seized… if you have power to both it’s got to be one of them.
You need a few sacrificial fuses to find which one though.
Good luck.
|
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Sept 9, 2021 16:19:37 GMT
In surprising news, I still haven't tackled this issue instead just not going out or only doing so in daylight hours (which has resulted in some interestingly quick runs around dusk haha) ... Can I just check diagnosis thoughts? LED lights are currently in, units are currently popped up, nothing does anything with a broken fuse, other than sidelights working off the stalk (which must therefore be on a different system). I'm thinking: - Remove LED lamp units out of the front (if I can get to the connector by pulling it forward) - If I can't get to the connector... -- pop them back in, -- swap the fuse for one that works, -- try to drop the pop-ups using the dash button (which is currently depressed to keep them in the Up position, to stop them from trying to do anything) -- disconnect the connectors via the back access (fnar fnar) -- pop up the pop-ups again via the button -- *now* remove the lamp units -- leave the pop-ups popped-up and the connectors disconnected - Once the lamp units are out and a new fuse in, leave them popped-up and turn on the lights stalk on the steering column - check if the fuse blows again - if it doesn't blow, assume one or both of the LED lamp units are borked and swap for another set, then turn on and hope it doesn't blow any more? - if it does blow while no lamp units are in the system... swear  and then physically check all the wiring between the light unit connector and wherever they trace back to?? - If there are issues with the motors / popping-up and down, do as dadbif recommends and unplug one at a time to see if it is that one causing problems As always, any input is very much appreciated! |
|
I think I will have a go at wiggling that later.
so I might well just order relays and a collection of fuses from Autolink - then I can swap/test/store for future use. (Beyond annoying that I had a load of fuses in the car but none of them fit! LOL)
lol
and then physically check all the wiring between the light unit connector and wherever they trace back to??
le sigh