pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on Feb 26, 2016 11:00:16 GMT
Good luck with the new forum Nick et al.
Reckon it's finally time to fit the i/c I've had sitting on the shelf for ages. Three questions :- 1) If I'm using the over-the-top route will I need to chop the underside of the bonnet - prefer not to but given I've a spare one maybe needs must? 2) Are Yellow injectors good for the anticipated 180-200 RWP and if so where to buy new or s/hand? 3) Anyone recommend a company who can re-map the Link ECU on a rolling road when it's done? TIA Cheers, Pewe.
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Post by Horney on Feb 26, 2016 11:04:22 GMT
1) If I'm using the over-the-top route will I need to chop the underside of the bonnet - prefer not to but given I've a spare one maybe needs must?The best way (and the way I've done it) is to drop the rad down and tilt it back a bit. You then get the bonnet clearance and keeping the pipe route short. It does mean some fabrication and chopping of the slam panel. 2) Are Yellow injectors good for the anticipated 180-200 RWP and if so where to buy new or s/hand?Yes. They crop up on eBay etc. If you get used get them cleaned before use. 3) Anyone recommend a company who can re-map the Link ECU on a rolling road when it's done?Have you asked Skuzzle? Cheers for the support!
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on Feb 26, 2016 13:13:34 GMT
Thanks,Nick. Having built the F27 chopping and fabricating shouldn't be a problem - in fact t's something I miss..... As an aside to that IIRC the rad's more efficient if it's at a slight angle so hopefully win/win. I'll ask t'other Nick about Link tuning. Cheers, Pewe.
BTW is there an "advise me when reply received" function?
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Post by Horney on Feb 26, 2016 13:26:30 GMT
BTW is there an "advise me when reply received" function? I don't think so. I'll add it to my list of things to investigate.
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Post by FreakyParts on Feb 26, 2016 16:17:19 GMT
The setting is in your profile page. Set the notifications as you see fit. As for intercooling, that's my job for the weekend. I've got to go down and round as there NO bonnet clearance on the MX150R! It'd look like a couple of horns
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Post by Fraza - AK Automotive on Feb 28, 2016 10:49:35 GMT
The setting is in your profile page. Set the notifications as you see fit. As for intercooling, that's my job for the weekend. I've got to go down and round as there NO bonnet clearance on the MX150R! It'd look like a couple of horns You can go over the top with the intercooler pipes on a FI Exocet, here's one we did a little while back for a customer.
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Mar 3, 2016 8:08:10 GMT
I also did an over the rad route with no bonnet chopping. I used the horn brackets bent in to a U shape to space the rad back (for some reason Mazda had an extra bracket to hang the horns lower, I then just bolted the horn straight back to the crossmember sitting a bit higher with no clearance issues; these handily have captive nuts on one end already, perfect!), and dropped it 3/4" by drilling a new hole for the lower locating bobbins through the brackets on the side of my rad (though I don't think all rads have these, so it might not be so easy). Note the standard fan is quite deep and could foul the ARB - I ditched my one fan in favour of two slimline fans that fit perfectly. Then I cut a semi circle out of the cross member where the pipes needed to go. I didn't have a dremel so drilled a lot of holes and filed it a lot to get it clean. Rubber U shaped trim to tidy it all up. The IC had to be hung from somewhere between the crossmember and rad so used the metal strap chopped down off of a standard cooling fan. I fitted rivnuts in the crossmember to avoid having to faff about getting a nut under it. Big steel rivnuts are not kind on the tools... Pipework was 2.25" but 2" is fine and would give you even more clearance. Any larger would likely foul. Using 2" would possibly allow you to hang the IC direct from the crossmember, but require more cutting of the crossmember and the IC will then potentially be further from the rad. LHS was a straight run, super easy. I used one long legged 90 degree bend chopped to length. RHS I had to chop a few bends to get round the rad cap and reuse the IAT boss I already had. Skuzzle tidied it up and welded it for me, but I ran for a while using an awkward selection of silicone joiners just fine. Whole thing cost me less than £250 all in including IC, pipes, silicone and welding. Took me a while mind as it took a few attempts to get the RHS run right! Edit: I have RX8 yellows and 174whp, Nick didn't say anything about them being maxed out so they're probably fine. Can't help with Link. Further edit to add more detail as I missed a few things out. Lots of pics on my Instagram feed, @moca2cv and also on my Nutz build thread, search for Libby!
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on Mar 3, 2016 12:18:45 GMT
That's really neat and tidy - great pic to show how it's done. Once the weather's a bit better I'll be starting on mine. Cheers, Pewe.
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Mar 3, 2016 21:20:27 GMT
That's really neat and tidy - great pic to show how it's done. Once the weather's a bit better I'll be starting on mine. Cheers, Pewe. Thanks! Just shout if you need anything. Happy to help.
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